The Restaurant Guide for Wine Lovers
A Taste of Tanners
A Taste of Tanners is the tapas-and-wine bar of a long-established Shropshire wine merchant, where Spanish-leaning small plates are sent out to drink with a merchant-grade list. The programme's strength is honest merchant pricing and an exceptional Sherry and fortified shelf poured by the small glass, which answers the menu's two hardest plates — the marinated anchovies and the powerful blue cheese — more fluently than most kitchens twice its size. It will most reward the wine lover who likes to drink adventurously by the glass without paying restaurant markups, and anyone who wants to learn Sherry at the source.
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GlouGlou
Shrewsbury, Shropshire
Natural wine bar, seasonal cicchetti and small plates
GlouGlou is a natural-wine bar and bottle shop in Shrewsbury, where a short menu of tinned British seafood, cheese, charcuterie and cicchetti is built to drink with a large, low-intervention list. The programme's strength is the depth and coherence of its organic and biodynamic buying, and the ease with which that list answers the two plates that trouble wine most — the vinegar-sharp oily fish and the tomato-and-mozzarella Caprese. It will most reward the curious drinker who wants to explore natural wine with knowledgeable people to guide them, and who is happy to be led somewhere unfamiliar.
Read the assessmentOld Downton Lodge
Ludlow, Shropshire
Modern British fine dining
Old Downton Lodge is a restaurant with rooms in the Shropshire hills where a refined, seasonal modern-British kitchen is matched to a serious, merchant-built cellar. The wine programme achieves real mutual elevation: the two hardest plates on the menu are the very ones the list answers most fluently, several of those answers poured by the glass, and the fortified and Sherry offer is a genuine strength. It will most reward the wine lover who wants old-world depth and a proper by-the-glass and Sherry selection to explore alongside a destination dinner.
Read the assessmentThe Clive Arms
Ludlow, Shropshire
Modern British gastropub
The Clive Arms is a modern British gastropub with rooms on the Oakly Park estate just outside Ludlow, cooking a seasonal menu of grills, fish and spiced plates. Its wine programme pairs a genuinely broad, plainly-annotated by-the-glass range with a merchant-selected step-up bottle tier and answers the menu's hardest plates competently, its one real gap being the total absence of dessert and fortified wine. It will suit the wine lover who values an easy, well-explained list and the freedom of three glass sizes over a deep cellar or a sweet-wine finish.
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