Asafoetida — flavouring profile

Asafoetida, or hing, is the great paradox of the spice rack — fiercely sulphurous and fetid raw, it mellows when fried in hot oil into a deep, savoury onion-and-garlic umami — and it is that cooked, savoury form, used in the tiniest pinch, that the wine must meet.

The compounds that matter. Raw asafoetida is loud with organosulphur compounds — the same family that makes garlic and onion pungent, here at a fetid extreme. But it is almost never eaten raw: fried in oil at the start of a dish, those sulphur compounds transform into a rounded, savoury, allium umami that deepens lentils and vegetables. That umami is the key to pairing, for free glutamate makes firm tannin taste metallic and harsh. Asafoetida belongs above all to Indian vegetarian and Jain cooking — dal, sambar, vegetable curries and pickles — used in a pinch to lend savoury depth, so the wine answers a savoury, often lentil-and-tamarind dish rather than a loud spice.

What it demands of a wine. Low tannin, because the savoury umami turns firm tannin metallic, and high acid to meet the tamarind, tomato or lentil base it deepens. A savoury or green-herbal character in the wine chimes with the allium depth. Where chilli joins the tempering, a touch of sweetness helps; keep alcohol moderate and oak light, since asafoetida works in subtle, savoury dishes rather than powerful ones.

Seek. A high-acid, savoury, green-toned white leads — its lentil, green-herb and pepper notes meet dal and sambar on their own ground. For tomato- or tamarind-based and gently spiced dishes, an off-dry, high-acid aromatic white carries the acidity and any chilli. For richer vegetable and meat dishes, a fresh, low-tannin red sits easily with the savoury umami, where a tannic one would not.

Avoid. Firm, high-tannin reds, which the savoury umami turns metallic and hard. Heavily oaked wines, whose vanilla clashes with the savoury allium note. Low-acid wines, which fall flat against the tamarind and lentil base.

Three to reach for. Grüner Veltliner (Wachau); off-dry Riesling (Mosel Kabinett); Cru Beaujolais (Gamay).