Königsberger Klopse

Veal meatballs in a creamy white sauce sharpened with capers and lemon, served with potatoes and beetroot. Delicate veal, silky cream, the unmistakable saline-vinegar punch of capers, lemon brightness: a quietly demanding dish. The wine has to meet the cream and stay out of the way of the veal, while handling the capers' brine and the lemon's acid. Heavy or oaked whites will smother the veal; tannic reds will turn metallic against the lemon and the capers.