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The Pairing Library

Kedgeree

Kedgeree is smoked haddock, basmati rice, boiled eggs, and curry spice, a British-Indian colonial breakfast dish that works equally well at lunch or supper. The smoked fish is the dominant flavour compound: saline, lightly oily, and deeply savoury. The curry spice adds warmth without real heat, the egg adds richness, and the rice absorbs and softens the whole. Oak is eliminated by the smoked fish; the challenge is finding a wine with enough aromatic character to engage the curry spice and enough acidity to cut the egg richness without fighting the smoke.

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