Lamb Kidneys

Lamb kidneys have an intense mineral-iron character, a slight ammonia edge if not properly prepared, and a richness that is more concentrated than any muscle meat. They are typically devilled: cooked quickly in butter with mustard, Worcestershire sauce, and a splash of sherry or Madeira, and served on toast. The mustard and Worcestershire add sharp acid and umami, the butter adds fat, and the toast provides starchy ballast. The wine needs to mirror the mineral-iron intensity of the offal and cut the butter without adding anything that amplifies the ammonia edge.