Lamb milk-fed

Milk-fed lamb: lechazo in Spain, agnello da latte in Italy, is slaughtered before weaning, giving flesh that is pale, extremely tender, and almost entirely without the lanolin-gamey character of older lamb. The fat is white and delicate, the flavour is mild and sweet, and the preparation is typically as simple as possible: roasted in the oven with nothing more than salt and perhaps rosemary, precisely because the meat itself is the point. The wine must match this delicacy without overwhelming it.