Mapo Tofu

Mapo Tofu

Mapo tofu is fierce Sichuan cooking: silken tofu and pork in a fermented chilli-bean sauce, slicked with chilli oil and dusted with numbing Sichuan pepper, so heat is the ruling challenge. Alcohol makes chilli burn worse, so the wine must be low in alcohol, off-dry and ideally sparkling, never a big red. Avoid high-alcohol and tannic reds.

Pairs Perfectly

An off-dry Riesling, Mosel Kabinett, Germany. At eight or nine per cent alcohol with a cooling touch of sweetness, it calms the chilli while its acid keeps everything fresh.

Pairs Well

A Cava, Penedès, Spain. Carbonation physically scatters the heat and its lean mineral spine stands up to the fermented sauce.

A Gewürztraminer from Alsace, off-dry, France. Aromatic and gently sweet, it cushions the spice and meets the savoury depth.

Avoid

High-alcohol and tannic reds, which pour petrol on the chilli fire.

Failing That

A Prosecco, Italy.

If All Else Fails

Pinot Grigio, Italy.

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