New York-Style Pizza

Thin-crust pizza in the Italian-American tradition: a hand-tossed dough fermented overnight, baked on the deck of a gas or coal-fired oven at high heat, dressed with a bright tomato sauce, low-moisture mozzarella, and often a finish of olive oil and dried oregano. Sold by the foldable slice across the city. The signature is the chewy crisp-edged crust, the bright acidic tomato, the salty melted cheese, and the slight char from the oven floor. Toppings vary: plain, pepperoni, sausage, mushroom, but the cheese-and-tomato architecture is the analytical centre. The wine must handle tomato acidity, salty cheese, and dough weight simultaneously.