Pork pie

A proper British pork pie — hot-water crust pastry, seasoned pork shoulder and belly filling, set pork jelly, eaten cold. The lard-rich pastry adds fat and starchy ballast, the cold pork filling is savoury and dense, the jelly adds a gelatinous richness, and the seasoning (mace, white pepper, sage) brings a distinctive warm spice character. Traditionally eaten with piccalilli or English mustard, both of which add sharp acid. The wine needs enough acidity to cut the lard and jelly, enough character to engage the spiced pork, and the confidence to handle the mustard or piccalilli alongside.

Pairs Perfectly

Cru Beaujolais — Moulin-a-Vent, Beaujolais, France — the most structured of the crus, dark cherry, earthy, firm for Gamay. The earthy dark fruit engages the cold spiced pork, the acidity cuts the lard pastry and jelly, and the structure handles the mustard or piccalilli alongside without hardening against the cold filling.

Pairs Well

English sparkling wine, Sussex or Kent, England — Chardonnay and Pinot Noir-led, high acidity, autolytic depth. The fine bubbles cut the lard pastry and jelly cleanly, the mineral character engages the cold spiced pork, and the regional affinity for a quintessentially British preparation is the strongest available.

Barbera d'Asti, Piedmont, Italy — high acid, low tannin, bright red fruit. The acidity cuts the fat and jelly and the low tannin suits the cold pork filling without hardening against it.

Avoid

Heavily tannic reds — cold pork fat and tannin produce an astringent combination. Delicate whites disappear against the lard pastry richness.

Failing That

A Gamay, Beaujolais Villages, Beaujolais, France.

If All Else Fails

A pale, crisp dry rosé with good acidity — a Pinot Noir rosé from Sancerre or the Loire.

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