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The Pairing Library

Salmon fishcakes

Salmon fishcakes: flaked salmon bound with mashed potato, seasoned with herbs and sometimes capers or mustard, pan-fried until golden. The salmon is the dominant flavour but the potato binding softens and dilutes it, the herb seasoning adds freshness, and the fried exterior adds a light crunch and butter or oil fat. The overall register is milder than most salmon preparations: less oily, less intensely flavoured, and suits wines that might be overwhelmed by a whole salmon fillet. No oak.

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