Salmon Hot-Smoked with Horseradish

Hot-smoked salmon is fundamentally different from cold-smoked; the flesh is cooked through, flakier, and the smoke penetrates the fat more deeply, giving a richer, more intensely smoky character. Paired with horseradish cream, the preparation adds a sharp, sinus-clearing heat alongside the smoke and oil. Oak is eliminated by both the fish and the smoke. The wine needs to engage the smoke without being overwhelmed, cut the oil and horseradish cream fat, and have enough character to match the horseradish heat without amplifying it.