Zander

Zander is a freshwater pike-perch with firm, mild, sweet white flesh and very low fat; it needs a wine with clean acidity and enough body to complement the texture without overwhelming the delicate flavour. Avoid anything oaked; the trimethylamine in the fish will react unpleasantly.

Chablis, Burgundy, France Pairs Perfectly. The lean, mineral, high-acid character of Chablis is a precise match for firm white freshwater fish: it lifts the flesh without competing with it, and the oyster-shell minerality has a natural affinity with clean river fish. Premier Cru Chablis for a richer preparation; village Chablis for everyday.

Hunter Valley Semillon, New South Wales, Australia Pairs Well. Bone-dry, low-alcohol, and bracingly precise with lime-zest and lemongrass, Hunter Semillon is one of the most underrated matches for delicate firm-fleshed white fish, and the light body is exactly right for zander's lean texture.

Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie, Loire Valley, France Pairs Well. Extended lees contact gives Muscadet a slight yeasty texture and saline depth that sits naturally alongside freshwater fish: a classic pairing and one of the best value whites for the dish.

Worth Seeking Out

Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Marche, Italy, its lean citrus acidity and slight almond finish make it a precise and undervalued match for delicate firm-fleshed white fish.

Avoid

Oaked whites of any kind, tannic reds, anything with residual sweetness.

Failing That

A Riesling trocken, Pfalz, Germany.

If All Else Fails

A Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire, France.

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