Offal, liver and marrow, flavouring profile

Offal, liver and marrow, flavouring profile

Offal runs from delicate sweetbreads to strong kidneys and pure beef fat in a marrow bone, and each wants a different wine, though all of them want acid and none wants hard, drying tannin.

The compounds that matter. The iron in liver, kidney and heart gives a mineral, faintly bloody taste, and young, firm tannin can turn it metallic. Liver adds a bitter edge and kidneys a strong, sulphurous note, and all offal is rich in glutamate, the savoury compound that makes tannin taste harder and more bitter. Bone marrow is almost pure fat with a deep beefy savour, so it needs acid to clear the palate and can carry more tannin than the rest.

What it demands of a wine. Bright acid first, to cut richness and lift the iron. Tannin moderate at most, and softer still with liver and kidneys. Savoury rather than sweet fruit, and a nutty, oxidative note where the dish is rich or spiced, since it echoes the roasted, nutty side of cooked offal.

Seek

With sweetbreads, calf's liver or chicken livers, the red should be light in tannin and high in acid, such as Pinot Noir from Burgundy, whose red fruit and earthy notes suit the gentle flavour. With chicken liver pâté or parfait, a dry Amontillado Sherry from Jerez has the nutty depth to match the richness and the acid to cut it. With lamb's kidneys, liver and bacon or heart, Barbera from Piedmont has the sharp acid and soft tannin to meet the iron without turning metallic, and with devilled kidneys a Fino Sherry from Jerez meets the spice and the savoury depth. With roast bone marrow on toast, the fat can carry more grip, so Langhe Nebbiolo from Piedmont brings firm tannin, roses and cherry, with the acid to cut through.

Avoid

Big, oaky, tannic reds such as young Cabernet Sauvignon or Barossa Shiraz with liver and kidneys, where tannin and iron taste metallic and bitter. Delicate whites with strong offal, which the flavour overpowers. Sweet, jammy reds, whose fruit clashes with the bitter edge of liver.

Three to reach for. For sweetbreads and delicate offal, Pinot Noir, Burgundy, France. For kidneys, liver and heart, Barbera, Piedmont, Italy. For bone marrow, Langhe Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Italy.