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The Restaurant Guide for Wine Lovers

Hartwell House

Hartwell House is a National Trust country-house hotel near Aylesbury whose dining room cooks classic seasonal fine dining. Its wine programme is a deep, genuinely global cellar under a named sommelier — library Bordeaux, a strong Champagne and English-sparkling shelf with a local Buckinghamshire fizz, a Coravin by-the-glass tier and a deep sweet-wine list — let down only by the absence of dry Sherry, Port or Madeira and by dessert wines offered by the bottle rather than the glass. It will most reward the diner who comes to eat classically and drink seriously, and who leans on the sommelier and the by-the-glass shortlist to match a large list to the table.

The full assessment — the wine programme, the pairings that lift a plate, and how the room reads for a wine lover — is for subscribers.

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