Consomme and broth

Consomme and broth

Assuming a clear beef or chicken consomme, served hot as a starter.

A clear broth is almost pure savoury depth and salt, served hot, with no fat to soften anything. That savouriness makes tannin taste metallic and the heat makes alcohol taste stronger, so the glass should be dry, low in tannin and not too heavy. A nutty, savoury wine meets the broth where a fruity one merely sits beside it.

Pairs Perfectly. Amontillado Sherry, Jerez, Spain. Dry, nutty and savoury, it carries the same brothy depth as the consomme, and a small glass beside the bowl is the classic partner, with a splash often stirred into the broth itself. There is no tannin to turn metallic, and its tang cuts the salt.

Pairs Well. Dry Madeira in its Sercial style, Portugal. Searingly sharp with walnut and orange peel, it lifts a beef consomme and matches its depth.

Pairs Well. Gamay, Beaujolais, France. Light, low in tannin and served cool, it is a red that will not turn metallic against a beef broth, and good value.

Worth Seeking Out

Palo Cortado from Jerez, Spain. A rare sherry that begins life like Amontillado and finishes nearer to Oloroso, with more weight and a long, nutty finish. It gives a plain consomme far more depth.

Avoid

Tannic reds and oaked, high alcohol whites. The savoury broth makes tannin metallic, and heat makes a strong wine taste hot.

Failing That

A Pinot Noir, Central Otago, New Zealand.

If All Else Fails

Muscadet sur lie, Loire.

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