Eton mess

Eton mess

Assuming crushed meringue folded through whipped cream and fresh strawberries.

Eton mess is sweet from the meringue, rich from the cream and fresh from the strawberries. The wine must be at least as sweet as the meringue, light enough for a pudding made mostly of air, and full of red berry fruit or bright acidity to meet the strawberries. Dry wines turn sour beside it.

Pairs Perfectly. Brachetto d'Acqui, Piedmont, Italy. A sweet, lightly sparkling red with strawberry and rose, low in alcohol. It mirrors the fruit and its bubbles lift the cream.

Pairs Well. Moscato d'Asti, Piedmont, Italy. Gently sweet and softly sparkling, with peach and orange blossom, and easy on the pocket.

Pairs Well. Vouvray moelleux, Loire, France. Sweet Chenin Blanc with honey, quince and high acidity, which keeps the cream from feeling heavy.

Worth Seeking Out

Ice Wine from Niagara, Canada. Intensely sweet with a sharp line of acidity and flavours of peach and tropical fruit, very good with strawberries and cream.

Avoid

Dry wines, including dry sparkling. Against meringue they taste thin and sharp.

Failing That

An Asti, Piedmont, Italy.

If All Else Fails

Pale White Zinfandel, California.

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