Ox cheek

Ox cheek

Assuming beef cheek braised for hours in red wine and stock until it falls apart, served with mash and its glossy sauce.

Ox cheek is soft, gelatinous and deeply savoury, with a sticky, reduced red wine sauce. It wants a red with enough body and tannin to meet the braise, and savoury, mature notes of leather, spice or dried fruit rather than fresh, simple fruit. Light reds and whites disappear beside it.

Pairs Perfectly. Rioja Reserva, Spain. Tempranillo with dried cherry, vanilla, leather and spice from years in barrel, soft tannin that suits melting meat and savoury depth that mirrors the sauce. It is widely available and easy on the pocket.

Pairs Well. Douro red, Portugal. Dark plum, violet and firm tannin from Touriga Nacional and its partners, full enough for a rich braise.

Pairs Well. Syrah, Saint-Joseph, northern Rhône, France. Blackberry, black olive and pepper on fine tannin, savoury enough for a red wine sauce.

Worth Seeking Out

Mavrud from the Thracian Valley, Bulgaria. Dark, spicy and firmly tannic, with plum and a savoury edge that suits slow cooked beef.

Avoid

Light reds, whites and simple, jammy reds. Light wines vanish, and simple fruit tastes thin beside a reduced sauce.

Failing That

A Chianti Classico Riserva, Tuscany.

If All Else Fails

Shiraz, Barossa.

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