Swordfish

Swordfish

Assuming a thick swordfish steak grilled and dressed with lemon, olive oil, oregano and capers.

Swordfish is firm and meaty for a fish, and grilling adds a charred edge, so the wine can carry more body than for delicate white fish. It still needs acidity for the lemon and capers, and little oak, which turns metallic against fish.

Pairs Perfectly. Catarratto from Sicily, Italy. Lemon, dried herbs and a broad, savoury texture, from the island where grilled swordfish is a staple. It has the weight for a meaty steak and is easy on the pocket.

Pairs Well. Tavel, a darker rosé, southern Rhône, France. Full and dry with red fruit and spice, enough body for the char and no tannin to clash with the fish.

Pairs Well. Assyrtiko from Santorini, Greece. Taut, salty and lemon sharp, with the acidity for capers and oregano.

Worth Seeking Out

Carricante from Etna, Italy. Flinty and citrus fresh, from volcanic slopes above the same seas the swordfish comes from.

Avoid

Oaked whites and tannic reds. Oak and tannin turn metallic against fish, and heavy reds bury the lemon and herbs.

Failing That

An Antão Vaz, Alentejo, Portugal.

If All Else Fails

Picpoul de Pinet, Languedoc.

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