Welsh rarebit

Welsh rarebit

Assuming mature cheddar melted with ale, mustard and Worcestershire sauce, grilled on toast.

Welsh rarebit is salty, savoury and sharp from the mustard, with the deep umami of aged cheddar and Worcestershire sauce. The wine needs acidity for the fat and mustard, and savoury depth to meet the cheese. Delicate, fruity wines are flattened, and big tannin tastes bitter against so much salt and umami.

Pairs Perfectly. Amontillado Sherry, Jerez, Spain. Dry, nutty and savoury, with a tang that mirrors aged cheddar and Worcestershire sauce, and the acidity to cut the melted cheese.

Pairs Well. English sparkling wine, Sussex, England, classic blend. Crisp bubbles and bright acidity with a toasty edge, sharp enough for the mustard and fresh against the fat.

Pairs Well. Merlot, Bordeaux, France. Soft plum fruit and gentle tannin, round enough for melted cheddar, and modestly priced.

Worth Seeking Out

Sercial Madeira, Portugal. The driest Madeira, tangy and nutty with piercing acidity, a close match for sharp, salty cheese on toast.

Avoid

Delicate whites and very tannic reds. Light wines disappear under the mustard, and firm tannin turns bitter against salt and umami.

Failing That

A Rioja Reserva, Spain.

If All Else Fails

Zinfandel, California.

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